CAMBODIA The Internet Travel Guide ************************************************************************** COPYRIGHT NOTICE: The information provided within this document is the property of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide". Following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely redistributed without any modification whatsoever. However, it may NOT be sold for profit or included in any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books,magazines, WWW-pages, or any other form) without the prior written permission of the copyright holders. This permission is only valid for the published version at the time the permission was granted; it does not extend into the future. Please direct questions, suggestions, comments and flames to geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com Last change: 8. October 1995 ************************************************************************** The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa, where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to the cambodian culture or history (although I started to include some information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts are much more pleasanlty presented in many good books (see the list in section 4 in this FAQ). Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Cambodia the information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly apreciate it. Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that I in that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a more personal note to the FAQ. ************************************************************************** CONTENTS 1. GENERAL OVERVIEW 1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION 1.2 CLIMATE 1.3 PEOPLE 1.4 EVENTS 1.5 VISA 1.6 EMBASSIES 1.7 BORDER CROSSING 1.8 MONEY 1.9 HEALTH 1.10 SAFETY 2. TRANSPORTATION 2.1 FLYING 2.2 TRAIN 2.3 BOAT 2.4 CARS 3. PLACES PHNOM PENH SIEM REAP ANGKOR WAT BATDAMBANG 4. LITERATURE 4.1 GUIDEBOOKS 4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES 4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL BOOKS 4.4 INTERNET A. CONTRIBUTORS ************************************************************************** 1. GENERAL OVERVIEW 1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION Area 181'040 km2 Capital Phnom Penh Borders Vietnam (1228 km), Laos (541 km) and Thailand (803 km) coastline 443 km (without islands) Highest point Mt. Aoral, 1771 m Terrain mostly low, flat plains, with mountains in the north and southwest Time GMT plus seven hours Measures Metric Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz International telephone code ++855 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.2 CLIMATE The climate in Cambodia varies greatly over the year. The rainy, monsoon season lasts from May to October. From December to March is the dry season. In spite of these differences the seasonal variations in temperature are small. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.3 PEOPLE Population 10.26 mio (est. July 1994) (annual growth rate 2.87%) 90% Khmer, 5% Vietnamese, 1% Chinese, some Chams and Malay Language Khmer, English and French Script Modern variant of the old Khmer script, which in turn originated 1700 years ago from the Bhrami script of India. Religion 95% Buddhist, some Muslim and animist -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.4 EVENTS April/ May: Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal The Royal Ploughing ceremony, or the opening of the Sacred Furrow, is the first of the traditional agrarian festivals. In times past, on an auspicious day determined by palace astrologists, the King traced the first furrows in the Capital's sacred rice field, thus inaugurating the ploughing season. Today, the ritual is performed by a man, King of Meakh, who leads the yoke and plough, followed by a woman, Queen Me Hour, who sows seeds. After thrice circling the ricefield, the procession stops at a chapel where Brahmins invoke the protection of the Gods. The sacred cows are unharnessed and guided to seven silver trays containg rice, corn, bean, and other edibles. Based on their choice, predictions are made for the coming year. If they choose the cereals, harvest will be good. If they eat herbs, cattle diseases are to be feared. If they drink water, rain will be abundant and peace will reign; but if they drink alcohol, trouble will break out in the Kingdom. 13 April: Bonn Chaul Chhnam The New Year's Festival spans three days following the end of the harvest season. Khmers clean and decorate their houses with an altar for offerings to the Tevoda of the coming year. They also visit the temple with offerings. Then they play traditional games such as Angkunh, Chaol Chhoung, Leak Kansaeng, and tug of war. September: Bonn Dak Ben and Bonn Phchum Ben Spirits Commemoration Festival is held for the spirits of the dead. Bonn Dak Ben - the offering of food to the monks - lasts for 15 days. The 15th day of the ceremony - the full oon - is called Bonn Pchum Ben, the collection of the bens (offerings). During this celebration, if departed souls do not find their family making offerings at a wat, it is believed that the soul is cursed and will bother the descendent throughout the year. October: Bonn Kathen This religious festival lasts for 29 days. The monks come out of their retreat. Town and country folks march in a procession to the wat, where the monks are waiting to change their old saffron robes for the new ones offered during the festival. The ceremony brings spiritual merit to both lay people and the monks. 9 November: Independence Day The 9th of November 1953 is the date Cambodia achieved independence from France. The occasion is marked each year by a gala parade in front of the Royal Palace, which includes floats, marching bands and other spectacles highlighting the nation's achievements. November: Bonn Om Tuk The three-day Water Festival celebrates the river's changing flow by watching a festive cavalcade of competitive boat races. The finish line symbolizes a gate that retains the water. Once the line is cut, water flows down the Mekong, commencing the fishing season. Other traditional ceremonies are the midnight meals of pounded rice and full moon celebration, with lighted flotillas and fireworks in the evening. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.5 VISA A visa is available at the airport of Phnom Penh for USD 20. It is valid for one month. Extensions to a visa are issued in-country by the Ministry of National Security. In Germany, you get the visa from Buero fuer den Schutz der Interessen Kambodschas Arnold-Zweig-Str. 10 D-13189 Berlin Tel 030-4711853 They are friendly and quick. The visa should take about one week. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.6 EMBASSIES CAMBODIAN EMBASSIES ABROAD Bulgaria Sophia, Tel 3592757135, Fax 3592754009 Cuba Havana, Tel/ Fax 537336400 Czech Republic Prague, Tel 422352603, Fax 422351078 France Paris, Tel 3140650470, Fax 3145664023 Germany Berlin, Tel/ Fax 49304711853 Hungary Budapest Tel 3611551128, Fax 3611552376 India New Dehli, Tel 91116423782, Fax 91116425363 Laos Thanon Saphan Thong Neua, Vientiane, Tel 314952, 312584 Russian Federation Moscow, Tel 70952012710, Fax 70952017668 Thailand Bangkok, Tel/ Fax 6622943528 USA New York, Tel 1718830770, Fax 17188979396 Washington DC, Tel (202) 726-8268, Fax (202) 726-8381 Vietnam Embassy 71 Tran Hung Dao St., Hanoi, Tel 53788 office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16 Consulate 41 Phung Khae Khon St., Ho Chi Minh City, Tel 92751 and 92744, office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16 FOREIGN EMBASSIES IN CAMBODIA Great Britain 29, 75th Street, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 27124 Laos 15-17 Thanon Keomani, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 26441, Fax (23) 85523, 26441 USA 27 EO Street 240, Box P, APO AP 96546, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 26436, (23) 26438, Fax (23) 26437 Vietnam Son Ngoc Minh area, Phnom Penh, Tel (23) 25481 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.7 BORDER CROSSING Vietnam There are daily bus services between Vietnam (Saigon) and Phnom Penh. The fare from Saigon is USD 10. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.8 MONEY The currency is the Cambodian riel (KHR). 1 new riel equals 100 sen. The going exchange rate is around 2500 KHR to 1 USD. (Historical development: 2390 in Dec 1993, 2800 in Sep 1992, 500 in Dec 1991, 560 in 1990, 159 in 1988, and 100 in 1987) The USD is widely used in Cambodia. BANKS The Foreign Trade Bank of Cambodia, 24 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Tel. (23) 22466, cashes cheques. The Bangkok Bank, 26 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Tel. (23) 26593, accepts cheques and Visa credit card. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.9 HEALTH This section only gives some small advice. You should certainly go to a doctor to get the best possible advice, especially on vaccinations (which may change over time). Medical facilities are not widely available. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment. Threats: Malaria, Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis), Japanese B Encephalitis, rabies, hepatitis, dengue fever, typhoid and tuberculosis. Malaria Malaria (from French 'mal air', bad air) is an infection of the blood caused by the bite of moscitoes (Anopheles). The decay of the red blood cells causes fever. Depending on the type of malaria these fever shocks appear every three (malaria tertiana) or four (malaria quartana). Death rate of malaria is less than 1%. There have been many discussions on how to best deal with it and even the doctors have not yet agreed on a single opinion. There are people who vote strongly in favour of using prophylactics such as Lariam. Apart from possible side-effects (like mental problems, nightmares, and a higher photo-sensitivity of the skin), these drugs do not prevent you getting malaria. You still have to go to a doctor and they make treatment more difficult. Another problem is that the strains of malaria get resistant after some time and another strain has developed for which a cure still has to be found and the native population is not yet resistant. Another possibility, recomendable especially for longer trips or for sensitive people is to carry an emergency package with you. If using Lariam, an example, you use three pills as soon as you feel malaria coming up, after twelve hours you take another two and after another twelve hours the last pill. You have to go to a doctor as soon aspossible. The most effective way. The most effective way to prevent malaria are mosquitoe repellant (possibly with at least 20% DEET, or citronella.) Since mosquitoes are only active after sundown and before sunset, make sure you wear clothes that cover the skin and use a good mosquitoe net. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) This parasitic infection is caught by contact with river water. You do not have to drink the water or swim in the river, just getting wet may be enough. The microscopic parasites in the water burrow into your skin and cause a damage to the liver and other organs. It is a chronic debilitation disease. The most dangerous region is south of Pakse. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.10 SAFETY There are still many areas of instability. Many parts of Cambodia, especially the border region to Vietnam, are heavily mined. The Khmer Rouge (and other bandits with only monetary instead of political interests) from time to time grab tourists straying from the main paths in an attempt to gain international support both in political and monetary form. Unfortunately, the police and armed military guards also asks for money, be it to let you pass or for some form of protection. I consider it as a must to gain information about the current situation in Phnom Penh at your embassy or the U.S. embassy. The noticeboard of the Capitol Hotel also has the latest horror stories. Although it is unlikely that anything happens to you, if you are the unlucky one to get taken hostage you would probably wish you would have been more careful. Southern Cambodia, the border region to Thailand, the Cardamon mountains, the north eastern part and the area around Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) are currently the biggest problems. Crossing the borders, except from Moc Bai in Vietnam, is not recomended. In March 1994, an employee of an international relief organisation was abducted in Kampot Province. She was later released. In April 1994, three tourists have been kidnapped at a roadblock on National Route 4, the main route to the coast. Some time later three burnt corpses have been found. They could only be identified as belonging to Caucasians (so were most probably these three tourists.) In January this year an American has been killed just north of Angkor Wat on their way to Banteay Srei. ************************************************************************** 2. TRANSPORTATION 2.1 FLYING Royal Air Cambodge (since end of 1994 incorporating Kampuchea Airlines) has an office Phnom Penh at 206 A, Norodom Blvd., Tel (18) 810647, Fax (18) 810274 INTERNATIONAL There are direct flights to Phnom Penh from Bangkok, Vientiane, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Airlines operating into Phnom Penh are Thai Airways International, Royal Air Cambodge, Lao Aviation, Vietnam Airlines, Dragonair, Malaysian Airlines and Silk Air. The flight from Bangkok is about 2250 Baht. There is an airport tax of USD 8 for international flights and USD 4 to Siem Reap. LOCAL Royal Air Cambodge serve the following destinations within Cambodia: Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Stung Treng, Ratanakiri, Battambang, Koh Kong and Sihanoukville. There are 5 filghts daily between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (USD 45). Flights are also available between Phnom Penh and Batdambang. Helicopters serve Koh Kong and Kampong Saom (Sihanoukville). -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.2 TRAIN There is only one train line in Cambodia. It goes from Kampong Saom (Sihanoukville), south of Phnom Penh, via Phnom Penh and Batdambang to Bangkok. From time to time it is blown up by the Khmer Rouge. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.3 BOAT There are boats between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. A fast boat supposed to take 12 hours (often, it takes about 24 hours) should cost USD 12 - 18. There are also slow boats. They should take 2 days during the wet season, and 4 days during the dry. One trip is first a four hour truck ride to the Tonle Sap, then four hours by boat and finally half an hour on a truck to Siem Reap. These fast boats easily outrun the slow pirate boats the Khmer Rouge use (so far I have not heard of a tourist boat pirated.) The boats seem to go only to about 15 km towards Siem Reap, the rest has to be made by truck, motorbikes or whatever transportation can be found. The motorbikes should cost about 1000 - 2000 r. The drivers want to drop you at a guest house they know, because they get a commission. One traveller also reported that the tourists were asked for money to leave the boat. The boats also frequently break down. There are basically two ways for it breaking down, one in the middle of the lake, an uncomfortable situation with no compass, no safety equipment and no oars. The other is actually much worse, being near the shore from where you get shot at. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.4 CARS It is possible to rent a car with a driver for USD 20 - 30. Always agree on the price in advance. ************************************************************************** 3. PLACES PHNOM PENH The capital of Cambodia dates back to an event in the year 1327. It is said that a rich widow named Don Penh found a tree with 5 buddhas in it. She thus founded a pagoda, Wat Phnom Don Penh, The Monastery on the Hill of Lady Penh. In 1434 the city founded some years earlier by King Ponhea Yat was finished. In 1866 it became the capital. The entrance to Wat Preah Keo (Silver Pagoda) is USD 2. Hotels The Capitol Hotel offers dormitories for USD 3, singles for USD 4 and doubles for USD 6 or 8. Some other budget hotels are: Asia Hotel, La Paillote Hotel, Monorom Hotel, What Phnom Hotel. Eating In the evening, food stalls are put up at the riverside. Good food can be obtained at the Dejavu or the Cafe No Problem. Many travellers and expats hang out at the Heart of Darkness, a bar with a pool table. For western food and a wild time, there is Happy Nef's Pizza. Twice a month at the Australian embassy there are beers on the verandah for just one dollar a can. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- SIEM REAP Siem Reap is the town next to Angkor Wat. In the south of Siem Reap, near the Ceremonial Gate at the river, there is a crocodile farm. To move to and between the temples of Angkor, rent a bicycle (USD 1 per day) or a motorbike (USD 5 per day). There are many small guest houses for some USD 5 per double. A popular restaurant is the Arun. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ANGKOR WAT What has become known as Angkor Wat is in fact a large area near Siem Reap covering several square kilometers. The actual temple Angkor Wat is only one of numerous others within this area. The temples in this area have been built between the 6th and 13th century. Unfortunately, the temples are in a very bad state and in need of extensive restauration. There are extremely high entrance fees. It is maintained that the entrance is justified by the high costs of rebuliding the temples, but that is not true. The temples are beeing restored by foreign aid. All the money from entraces goes directly to the corrupt gevernment officials and guards. Prices seem to vary, depending on who is 'selling' the tickets to you. Some examples: USD 25 for 3 days USD 10 general entrance fee, plus USD 10 to 15 per temple USD 20 for 1 day, USD 40 for 3 days, and USD 60 for one week. There seems to be a 'side' entrance where it sould be possible to get in for much less money. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- BATDAMBANG There are many hotels with air-conditioning and satellite TV. Restaurants are plentyful, mostly managed by Thai. ************************************************************************** 4. LITERATURE 4.1 GUIDEBOOKS CAMBODIA - A Travel Survivel Kit, Lonely Planet Contains many good hints about travelling. Has always good lists of hotels, restaurants, etc. South-East Asia on a Shoestring, Lonely Planet Covers the whole region. Cambodia, Laos. Nelles. 1994. Nice pictures and good insights into culture, but lacks the support for independant travel that the Lonely Planet guide has. Good reading for people on organised tours or for at home. It extensively covers Angkor Wat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES Lewis, Norman. A Dragon Apparent: Travels in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam (1951; current reprint by Eland Books). Stewart, Lucretia. Tiger Balm: Travels in Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia (London: Chatto & Windus, 1992). -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL BOOKS Fall, Bernard B. Street Without Joy: Indochina at War 1946-54 (Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: Stackpole Company, 1961). Die Krallen der Tiger und Drachen. Wirtschaftsboom und Selbstbewusstsein in Asien. Sabine Stahl/ Ulrich Mihr (Hrsg.). Droemer Verlag 1995. An excellent book about the current political and economical developments in Asia. Griesenfeld, Guenter. Land der Reisfelder. Vietnam, Laos, Kampuchea, Geschichte und Gegenwart (Pahl-Rugenstein, 1988). This is an excellent history book on the three Indochinese countries. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.4 INTERNET The archive for this guide is at rtfm.mit.edu in /pub/usenet/news.answers/travel/cambodia-guide/ or in WWW format at http://www.cambodia.org/travel/guide.html You can obtain the Cambodian constitution at http://www.best.com/~cambodia/facts/constitution.html Lonely Planet has a page on Cambodia: http://www.lonelyplanet.com.au/dest/sea/camb.htm The Cambodia Times online is at http//www1.jaring.my:80/at-asia/ ************************************************************************** A. CONTRIBUTORS I have been able to include a lot of information from other people and sources. Where it is necessary to do so, I put the author in front of the paragraph, mostly so when personal experiences/ feelings are important. Whenever possible I tried to contact the author of the information to get permission and I include his/ her e-mail address for reference. Hann So 76062.1265@CompuServe.com Myers Cooper ********************************************************************* Peter M. Geiser Seeblickstr. 10 9010 St. Gallen SWITZERLAND geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com *********************************************************************